I recently spent 4 nights in Belgium and in that time tried to pack in as much as possible. One thing I love about city breaks is the exhilarating whirlwind feel to them – when you want to make the most of your short time, so you indulge in everything all at once. Don’t get me wrong, I love slow travel too, but something about a whistle-stop tour of a city feels really exciting to me.
After doing a bit of research, I decided I wanted to visit Brussels, Bruges, and Ghent, and after a little more research, I decided to stay in Bruges. There is a great train service in Belgium so it is super easy to travel between cities. From Bruges, it’s only one hour by train to Brussels, and just 20-30 minutes to Ghent, making both cities great day trip options from my accommodation in Bruges.
So four nights left me with three full days – a perfect split between my three chosen cities. Before we get into the city-by-city break down, I want to let you in on my secret for visiting any new city – worldwide. And that secret is: free walking tours! In every new city I visit, it’s always my first port of call. Ideally, I do it on day 1, or if like in this case it’s a day visit, first thing in the morning. Not only do you get oriented with the city, but you’ll likely get a range of recommendations from a local for places you hadn’t even heard of yet. Although they are called ‘free’ walking tours, the tour guides make their living from tips, so it’s super important to support them through these means – especially if you enjoyed the tour.
Bruges
Bruges was my very first experience of Belgium as I took a coach from Rotterdam in the Netherlands (where I was staying prior) directly to Bruges station. Immediately, I felt the pull of the city. It’s easy to see why tourists come by the millions each year. Bruges is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe, offering incredibly intricate gothic architecture that really takes you back in time. It has a certain beauty that can’t quite be captured on film. A real live-in-the-moment kind of city. One of the first things I noticed about Bruges was the aromatic fragrance of the city. As you walk through the centre, your senses are tempted with the smells of chocolate and powered sugar. Along almost all central streets you will find an abundance of chocolatiers, waffle shops, and bakeries. And as a vegan, why should you miss out on these local delicacies?
Okay, so I will admit that Bruges certainly is behind the times when it comes to the vegan scene. It has an obvious lack of vegan options compared to its Belgian sister cities. However, you can still find two fully vegan establishments here, along with a range of places offering vegan options. That brings me to my first recommendation in Bruges, which is Blackbird – a small cafe in the Burg Quarter that is fully vegan. I stopped here for brunch on my last day and had a gorgeous spread of breakfast delights including a freshly baked bagel, scrambled tofu, a yogurt & granola pot, and a creamy hot chocolate. Everything was utterly delicious and the staff here are just lovely. It’s only a small cafe that does tend to fill up, so be sure to get here early if you want a good spot!
The second all-vegan establishment you will find in Bruges is Atelier Flori, a restaurant that offers small dishes tapas style, as well as occasional live music and art exhibitions. I unfortunately didn’t have the opportunity to dine here, but their impressive reviews online speak for themselves. They are open from Thursday – Sunday and it may be worth calling ahead to make a reservation if you choose to dine here (I speak from bitter experience!).
Bruges has a great selection of museums that are definitely worth checking out. You’ll find a museum for just about everything from art to medicine, crime & punishment, to food! If you plan to visit several of these museums, I recommend checking out the Musea Brugge Card (link?) which for the price of €25 – €33 (depending on age) will allow you unlimited museum access across Bruges for 72 hours.
Of course, you’ll also want to visit Market Square – this is the central square in Bruges, which as the name suggests, used to be the marketplace of the city dating back to the 13th century. You will still find a fresh food and flower market being run here on Wednesday mornings however there is of course a lot of meat & cheese being sold here. Market Square is also the home of the Belfry tower (it’s hard to miss). Here, you can ascend the 366 stairs for an amazing view of the city. Finally, if you head to the Church of Our Lady, you will find the only one of Michaelangelo’s sculptures to live outside of Italy. This is the Madonna of Bruges.
One imperfection of Bruges for me was just how many horse-drawn carriage tours run here. It is a shame to see these beautiful animals exploited for tourism. It certainly took a little of the shine away from the city for me. I think this is something not often talked about – just how normalised animal tourism and exploitation is, particularly in tourist hot spots. I like to think that we are slowly moving away from this as more people become aware of the cruel nature of this industry.
Brussels
My first full day was spent in Brussels and as I stepped out of the train station, I felt small, like the city was towering over me. It was a stark contrast to the intimate and cosy feel of Bruges. But as you adventure further into the city, you become enthralled by the vibrancy of the city.
I suggest heading straight to Grand-Place (or ‘Grote Markt’) which is like the hub of the city. This seriously impressive square will have you falling in love with Brussels and the hustle and bustle of the capital. Make sure to also check out the Royal Gallery of Saint Hubert, St. Michael & St. Gudula Cathedral, Manneken Pis (come on, it’s a must-do in Brussels), a stroll down the Comic Book route, The Royal Palace of Brussels, and the Atomium – although note that this is a little far out of the city centre. And if you’re into Jazz, there’s a great jazz bar called The Music Village, which I highly recommend.
Okay, so let’s talk food. Choice is abundant in Brussels for vegan spots – truly something for everyone and every taste. You only need to check Happy Cow to see just how many all-vegan establishments there are here. Some of the highlights for me were… Lil Bao – A Taiwan-inspired restaurant specialising in bao buns as well as a range of other Taiwanese street food (I especially recommend the calamari here!) Lucifer Lives – a cafe serving breakfast, brunch, lunch, and cakes. The Judgy Vegan – another cafe offering traditional Belgian meals, house-made burgers, and even a brunch buffet! Liu Lin – an Asian fusion restaurant offering hearty noodle, rice & soup bowls. Humus x Hortense – Belgium’s first restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star. This one is perfect for a special night out. And finally, The Vegan Butcher’s Choice – which as you might have guessed, is not a restaurant but rather a vegan butcher offering a wide range of vegan ‘meats’ and ‘cheeses’.
Ghent
I have to say, and I do say this with a heavy heart, I was a little disappointed in Ghent. I know, I know. Before going, I had read SUCH amazing things about it being this cute gothic fairytale city, but I just loved Bruges and Brussels that little bit more. What I will say about Ghent, however, is that the vegan food scene here is great. And as someone who often plans travel around food – this suited me!
First up on my must-visit food agenda for Ghent is Oh Ma! Here they specialise in traditional Belgian food made vegan. I have to put this at the absolute top of my must-visit places in Belgium. The food is incredible, the interior is beautifully aesthetic, and the staff are super friendly. Of course, being able to sample some traditional Belgian dishes is a huge plus too.
Now another top vegan place to eat in Ghent is Plant A Pizza… so I’m told. Okay, so here’s the thing – I never actually got to visit here. Unfortunately, I didn’t plan accordingly and the day I spent in Ghent, the restaurant was closed. It is the first-ever plant-based pizzeria in Belgium and incredibly popular – although it is easy to see why. The menu will leave you spoilt for choice.
There are several other highly rated vegan spots in Ghent you may also want to try out, including: Le Botaniste – a cafe and wine bar with a varied menu incorporating lots of fresh and healthy ingredients. Ludo – a cafe known for its array of cakes and sweet treats. knol&kool – which combines a wholefoods / plant-based shop with a restaurant that offers breakfast, lunch & dinner.
For sightseeing in Ghent I recommend the Castle of the Counts – a medieval fortress dating from the 12th century, St. Michael’s Bridge, and St. Bavo’s Cathedral. In the cathedral, you will not only find some beautiful architecture, but you will also find the Ghent Altarpiece, which is also known as “The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb” and is in fact the most stolen painting in the world.
Food tips
Okay let’s get down to business – BELGIAN WAFFLES. I know you’re thinking ‘but where do I find the vegan Belgian waffles?’ Well, fear not, I not only sought out where you can find them, but I’ve ranked them from best to worst (in my humble opinion) so that you can be well informed on your own vegan Belgian waffle crusade.
So coming in at number 4 we have Otto Waffle Atelier in Bruges. Now I have to admit, I didn’t try these ones, although they did look absolutely divine. They have a range of vegan toppings and ice creams to choose from, as well as a separate vegan batter for the waffles. The downside for me though was that they did not have a separate vegan waffle iron, so all waffles vegan or not are cooked together. Now, maybe for you this is no problem, and honestly after speaking to the locals this seemed quite normal to them (which makes me wonder about the other waffles I ate), but I decided to pass up on this due to personal preference. Which is why I sadly have to put them at the bottom of my list.
At number 3 we have The Chocolat Bar in Bruges which offers several vegan options. It is a very small cafe with limited seating so bear this in mind if you visit. I ended up sitting outside which in February was verryyyy cold! I did find the staff to be a little standoffish, which after checking out their Happy Cow reviews – seemed to be a common opinion. However, I did enjoy the pistachio waffle I had here overall. It was my first experience of a Belgian waffle and it certainly hit the spot. I think it could have been a little more fluffy inside but hey, you can’t have it all!
The runner-up was the only savoury waffle I tried and this was at The Sister Brussels Café in, you guessed it, Brussels. They have an extensive menu with a significant number of vegan & gluten-free dishes, including eight different waffles of both the sweet and savoury variety. I went for the Vegan History waffle, which came topped with vegan bacon, mozzarisella (one of my favourite dairy-free cheeses!), avocado, sundried tomato, and rocket. The waffle itself is made with spinach and garlic, giving it a green hue and a great underlying flavour. The toppings all complemented each other well, and I thoroughly enjoyed it.
But my top spot absolutely has to go to Vegan Waf in Brussels. This place is 100% vegan and gluten free, and offers a range of toppings. Here, I went for vegan chantilly cream, fresh strawberries, and caramel sauce. You can basically choose any combination you like but I highly recommend the chantilly cream. Seriously, I’ll be dreaming of this waffle for a very long time!
I believe there are more places that do offer vegan waffles in Belgium, be sure to ask locals and check out Happy Cow to find any I’ve missed – and please feel free to share in the comments if you do find some!
Now, of course, I couldn’t neglect the humble french fry (or chips to us Brits), which originated right here in Belgium in the late 1600s. And you might be wondering why they are named french fries if they come from Belgium and not France. Well, this is a funny story. It was the American soldiers in WW1 who learned of these fries and enjoyed them so much that they began spreading the word back home. However, they mistakenly assumed as they were in a French-speaking region of Belgium, that they had learned of this delicious delicacy from the French. Therefore declaring fries as French in a name dub that would become timeless (much to the annoyance of the Belgians).
We all know that fries have been a strong ally to the vegan for many years, but what you might not know is that Belgium fries are traditionally double-cooked in beef fat, making them unsuitable for vegans & vegetarians. But don’t worry, once again, I have your back. So here’s where to head for your vegan-friendly salty potato fix in Belgium…
In Brussels, you’ll want to head to Patatak, in Bruges you can hit up Fritbar, and in Ghent try Frites Atelier. All of these frieteries use vegetable oil instead of any animal products. I believe there are several other frieteries around that use vegetable oil although it’s not always openly advertised so be sure to ask before indulging.
When talking about Belgian foods, it would be hard not to mention chocolate. Of course as well as being famous for waffles and fries, Belgium is also famous for their chocolates – is there anything they can’t do?! Now I won’t lie to you, this is where you might struggle to find the vegan options. If you like dark chocolate, you’re in luck. A lot of chocolatiers will offer dark chocolate covered fruits or nuts, but you may struggle to find pralines or truffles that don’t contain animal products. Although as veganism is rising in popularity, we are slowly seeing more vegan options becoming available. It’s always worth going in to ask. I happened to stumble across some delicious vegan milk chocolate pralines in a tiny chocolatier in Bruges – completely accidentally!
My final few tips
1. There are three official languages of Belgium – Flemish (similar to Dutch), French, and German. You will likely hear people speaking mostly in Flemish and French but a lot of people here also speak English.
2. State museums are closed on Mondays – bear this in mind when planning your trip and itinerary.
3. When walking the streets of Belgium, be sure to look up – or you might miss something spectacular. The best thing about medieval cities is the architecture. There are plenty of clues about the origins of the buildings hidden within the ornamental facade – blink and you might miss them. Keep an eye out especially for dates – you’ll be amazed at how many of these buildings display the date of construction; and even more amazed at just how old these buildings really are.
4. Belgian beer is no joke, make sure to check out alcohol percentages before ordering – some of them are up to 15%!
5. In all three cities you can enjoy a boat tour along the canals – this is a great way to see the city from a slightly different perspective and learn about the history of their waterways.
If you have any recommendations of other places to try in Belgium, please share below. And if you’ve enjoyed anything in this article, or have any additional details to add, please feel free to share in the comments. We are a community that can all learn from each other.